The moonlight illuminated the terrain in shades of iron gray, save for the inky black silhouettes of elephants casting shadows against the ground. In awe, young Toomai silently watched as more elephants emerged from the dense foliage, their majestic forms cutting a striking figure in the moonlit forest.
— “Toomai of the Elephants,” Rudyard Kipling
Exploring the Journey of Asian Elephants
In the enchanting tale of “Toomai of the Elephants,” Rudyard Kipling takes readers on an imaginative journey through Assam, India, featuring a magnificent Asian elephant named Kala Nag. Toomai, a young elephant handler, is transported to a mythical “elephant dance,” where these giants gather to sway and roar under the moon until dawn breaks, leaving only chewed grasses as evidence of their midnight revelry.
The Mystic Northeast India: A Frontier for Adventure
The lush, uncharted jungles of Northeast India and the eastern Himalayas have long captured the imaginations of adventurers, explorers, and artists alike. In our modern age, with easier access to remote locations and the connectivity of social media, witnessing the mythical elephant dance remains a rare spectacle. However, tales from this vibrant region continue to inspire curiosity, inviting questions about whether there are still hidden wonders waiting to be discovered.
Near Manas National Park, comparing hair and offering oil. (Photo by Sourav Mandal)
The Plight of Asian Elephants
Today, the future of Asian elephants hangs in a precarious balance. Their population has dwindled significantly to around 40,000 to 50,000 individuals, with approximately 60% residing in India. As human encroachment threatens their natural habitats, a tragic loss occurs yearly, claiming the lives of approximately 450 people and 100 elephants. North Bengal, situated at the confluence of Nepal, Bangladesh, and Bhutan, is particularly affected, being near the majestic Kanchenjunga mountain range.
Voicing a Hidden Conflict
The complexities surrounding this human-elephant conflict are often oversimplified. However, it is crucial to amplify these stories. Recognizing the struggle of elephants alongside human communities is essential to understand this ongoing issue.
A Journey of Discovery
Over a span of several years, multiple trips to India’s borderlands turned into a deeper quest. Through various articles and an upcoming book titled “Elephants in the Hourglass”, as well as a film project named “Where the Forest Roars”, the journey was fueled by a desire to explore the ancient migration routes of elephants—stretching 1,430 miles into Kipling’s Assam and further into Arunachal Pradesh.
The Enchanting State of Arunachal Pradesh
Arunachal Pradesh, known as the “Land of the Rising Sun,” is a captivating state that borders Tibet, Myanmar, and Bhutan. This area boasts a rich cultural tapestry, with inhabitants like the Adi, Mishmi, and Apatani peoples viewing elephants as ancestral spirits and companions. Here, elephants follow the Siang River, which starts as Tsangpo in Tibet before merging into the Brahmaputra and ultimately, the Ganges. In tracing the elephants’ paths, one uncovers the very essence of India itself.
High Altitudes and Elephant Habitats
Remarkably, elephants have been observed at elevations nearing 9,800 feet in Arunachal’s Eaglenest Sanctuary, marking the highest documented elephant habitat on Earth. The opportunity to explore this incredible terrain begs the question: what stories and experiences await?
