INVERNESS, Scotland — After days of lovely weather, our visit to Culloden Battlefield coincided with a dramatic change. The skies dimmed, temperatures dropped, and the wind picked up, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of the dire conditions the Jacobites faced during their last stand in 1746.
Wrapped tightly in coats and scarves, the group navigated the battlefield as our guide delved into the tragic narrative of the Jacobites, who fought to restore the Stuart monarchy against the Duke of Cumberland’s army. In less than an hour, the Jacobites suffered devastating losses right on the ground where we stood.
A memorial stone honoring a clan at Culloden Battlefield, near Inverness, Scotland. Photo Credit: Brinley Hineman
The Jacobite uprising stemmed from the desire to install the exiled Catholic James Francis Edward Stuart as king over the Protestant William and Mary. The Battle of Culloden, led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, commonly known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, resulted in crushing defeat for the Jacobites, with approximately 1,500 out of 1,600 casualties being from their side alone.
This brutal and rapid defeat marked the last battle on British soil and altered the course of history, igniting a period of repression against Highlanders. The sobering stories shared by our guide revealed that no Jacobite was spared; even women and children met tragic fates. Our guide recounted harrowing tales of Jacobites who sank in bogs, too weak from starvation to escape, while others faced death from their wounds or exposure on the battlefield.
Those killed in the battle were buried in unmarked graves; erecting a memorial for the Jacobites was seen as an act of treason against the British monarchy at that time. Some clans, however, were later recognized with memorial stones placed at designated war graves in 1881, providing a nod to those who bravely fought.
Although battlefield tourism typically may not captivate everyone, the emotional weight of our guide’s narratives resonated deeply as we walked the same ground where desperate battles were fought. The chilling wind enhanced the gravity of the stories, making it impossible to ignore the anguish faced by the Jacobites as they confronted the advancing army.
Fans of the popular TV series and book franchise “Outlander” found moments of reprieve amid the somber history, eager to visit the Clan Fraser stone featured in the show. Although not a viewer myself, I learned from my companions about the character Jamie Fraser, believed to have perished on this very site. The main character Claire pays homage to the memorial stone, a poignant scene filmed at the actual grave on the battlefield.
Upon our visit, a single white rose adorned the stone honoring Clan Fraser, perhaps left by an “Outlander” enthusiast or someone paying tribute to the fallen Jacobites many years later.
